Vegetarian China

Introduction

Vegetarians and vegans planning trips to China often have questions about how to find acceptable cuisine.

This page aims to answer your questions by familiarising you with the historical, cultural and practical implications of being vegetarian in this fascinating part of the world.

Although this site is based upon my own experience as a vegetarian, information for vegans is also provided.

First of all, don't be discouraged from travel. It is possible to travel widely in China and find vegetarian or vegan food. It just takes some effort and a bit of flexibility.

Most foreign vegetarians arrive in greater China with no local language skills, which was exactly the case for me.

I'll present some basic Chinese phrases for you that allow you to explain your dietary preference, and also give you a list of common dishes as a 'safe menu'.

The Chinese characters on this page are in simplified Chinese, the pronunciation is Mandarin (standard Chinese) and the romanization given here is pinyin.

Cantonese pronunciation is also provided at the end. This is useful in case you travel to Guangdong or eastern Guangxi province, or find yourself in a Cantonese restaurant.

How to say you're vegetarian

??? (wo chi su)

Unfortunately there is no simple way to say you're vegetarian that will be understood clearly in all situations.

But don't panic! ... there's some easy to remember phrases that come close.

The standard strategy is to get the gist of the message across with the Chinese phrase wo chi su (literally "I eat vegetables"), or one of its slightly more complex variant.

This phrase, combined with being vigilant against contaminants (little pieces of meat, meat-based soup stocks, sprinklings of dry shrimps, etc.) is a practical and easily achievable solution to the core problem of getting fed.

Indeed, they are three powerful characters - whether you print them out and point at them, or try to learn the pronunciation and repeat it yourself, you'll be dashing in to random restaurants and discovering new vegetarian delicacies in no time!

Of course, repeating this phrase has its limitations and there are is a more elevated phrases that you might also want to learn about.

Bonus Phrase for Budding Linguists

English Chinese Pinyin Notes
I'm vegetarian ??? (wo chi zhai) wo chi zhai This variant is a more religious-oriented way to say that you are vegetarian.
It is less likely to be understood and may cause confusion.

How to say you don't eat something

??? (wo bu chi)

Since vegans and many vegetarians have particular (dis)affinities for foods, it helps to know how to say that you don't eat something.

The phrase for this is wo bu chi... followed by the food in question.

For instance, wo bu chi ji dan means "I don't eat (chicken) eggs."

Two other useful foods to remember with this phrase are yu (fish) and hai xian (seafood).

Vegetarianism in Chinese history

Chinese-style bird-pattern design.

China was a major center of Buddhism and the founding state of Taoism, two nature-oriented philosophies that promote vegetarianism and low-impact living.

However, the situation in modern China is quite different.

In recent history many Chinese people were too poor to afford meat, and today they have grown up and/or had children of their own.

Back with a vengeance, they are almost literally munching on any little critter they can get their hands on.

This explains the lack of overt vegetarianism and the quizzical looks you may garner when you finally get your message across.

List of Chinese vegetarian dishes

Here is a list of common Chinese vegetarian dishes and/or street food, including names in Chinese and English, ingredients and vegetarian/vegan status.

English Name & Image
Chinese
Pinyin
Vegan
Description/Comments
Breads and Pastries


bing
Some
Chinese Pinyin Description
窝头
窝窝头
wo tou
wo wo tou

North-eastern steamed corn bread.
煎油饼
jian you bing
Folded fried pancake.
锅贴
guo tie
Lightly salted baked pancake.
煎饼
jian bing
Fried pancake. (Pictured left.)
春卷
chun juan
Pancake roll, sometimes with filling.
油炸饼
you zha bing
Fried pancake with filling.
葱油饼
cong you bing
Fried spring onion pancake.
Cabbage and Mushrooms
白菜木耳
bai cai mu er
Yes
Stir fried cabbage with wood ear mushrooms, and a few other vegetables such as carrot.
Candied Vegetables
挂浆
gua jiang
Yes
North-eastern dishes of candied vegetables, usually pumpkin. Very sticky and difficult to eat after they set!  When hot, really hot - some restaurants provide dipping water to cool the pieces down.
Chinese
Pinyin
Description
南瓜挂浆
nan gua gua jiang
Pumpkin candy. (most common)
土豆挂浆 tu dou gua jiang
Potato candy. (also common)
香蕉挂浆 xiang jiao gua jiang
Banana candy. (uncommon)
苹果挂浆 ping guo gua jiang
Apple candy. (uncommon)

Chinese Buns
包子
bao zi
Yes
Breakfast buns filled with all sorts of tasty goodies.  You can acquire these from streetside vendors - just look for steaming piles of round, bamboo containers.  Most buns are lightly salted.
Chinese
Pinyin
Description
花卷
hua juan
Salted flour bun with diced spring onion throughout.
菜包 *
cai bao
Catch all name for buns with vegetable mix inside.
*Watch out, some 菜包 contain a small amount of diced meat, so remember to ask before buying!
香菇菜包
xiang gu cai bao Salted bun with mushroom and vegetable mix inside.
豆沙包
dou sha bao
Sweet bun with red bean paste inside.

Cold Cucumber Salad
凉拌黄瓜
liang ban huang gua
Yes
A lightly salted cucumber salad with chilli, served cold.
Crispy-Skin Tofu

脆皮豆腐
cui pi dou fu
Yes
Blocks of tofu served sweet red sauce.
Dumplings
菜饺子
cai jiao zi
Yes
These are little, boiled, flour-wrapped packages with various veggies inside, usually served in a soup, with additional sauces such as vinegar and soy for flavouring.
Warning: Many places serve these in soups which include chicken stock.  Some places may include small amounts of meat.  Ask using the phrases listed above, or inspect before ordering.

Egg and Tomato Soup
番茄蛋汤
fan qie dan tang
No
A simple soup made of eggs and tomato.  Salty, and available country-wide.
Eggplant with Chilli and Potato
地三鲜
di san xian
Yes
Stir fried eggplant, chilli and potato braised with soy sauce.  Northern dish.
Fried Beansprouts

炒豆芽
chao dou ya
Yes
Stir fried beansprouts, lightly salted.  Sometimes accompanied with carrot or cucumber.  Sometimes served cold.
Garlic Fried Chinese Spinach 蒜泥菠菜
suan ni bo cai
Yes
Garlic stir-fried Chinese spinach.
Golden Needle Mushrooms & Cucumber (cold)

金针菇拌黄瓜
jin zhen gu ban huang gua
Yes
A cold dish: mixed golden needle mushrooms (long, thin, white ones), shredded cucumber, coriander and garlic.  Northern dish.
Green Chilli & Potato Shreds

青椒土豆丝
qing jiao tu dou si
Yes
Northern dish. Shredded green chilli and potato, lightly salted and fried with oil.  The chillis are not usually very hot.  Sometimes includes onion.
Green Chilli & Dried Tofu
青椒干豆腐
qing jiao gan dou fu
Yes
Northern dish. Green chilli slices and piles of thinly cut dried tofu sheets.  The chillis are not usually hot.
Homestyle Tofu
家常豆腐
jia chang dou fu
Yes
A mild, slightly sweet and chewy tofu dish with a tomato-based sauce and veggies.
Warning: Sometimes has meat. 
Ask using the phrases listed above, or inspect before ordering.
Hot & Sour Soup
酸辣汤
suan la tang
Yes
A hot and sour soup, usually very thick, with mushrooms, bamboo shoots, carrots and chilli.
Warning: Sometimes has meat. 
Ask using the phrases listed above, or inspect before ordering.
Hot Pepper Tofu

麻辣豆腐
ma la dou fu
Yes
Not to be confused with ma po do fu, which has meat, this is a hot, stir-fried tofu dish which goes well with rice and can be eaten right across the country.
Hot Pot

火锅
huo guo
Yes
Most parts of China have 'hot pot' restaurants, which provide respite from endless rice or noodle dishes.  The basic idea is that you get a pot, with boiling water or soup, and then order various things to put in.  Because this is entirely voluntary (opt in on each ingredient) it's entirely safe for vegetarians and vegans.  The only problem is the soup - use the phrase list above to ensure you have hot water instead of a meat stock to start with.  The hotpot pictured on the left is a 'yuan yang guo', which features two soups - often one hot and one watery.
Ice Cream
冰淇淋
bing qi lin
Some
There's a huge array of ice creams available across China, which usually vary a lot more in texture, material, taste and price than those available in western countries, which are mostly dominated by the products two or three ice cream companies.  Vegans can probably safely try the green or red bean flavoured ice poles.
Milk
牛奶
niu nai
No
In some cities milk can be found on the street at special vendors.  In many places, however, you will have to go to a store.
Mushroom & Gluten Clay Pot
香菇面筋煲
xiang gu mian jing bao
Yes
A hot clay pot containing a soup with fragrant mushrooms, green veggies and gluten balls.  One of my favourites.  Southern dish.
Warning: Sometimes the soup may contain chicken stock.  Ask using the phrases listed above, or inspect before ordering.
Mushroom & Veggie Hearts

香菇菜心
香菇青菜
xiang gu cai xin
xiang gu qing cai

Yes
Mushrooms in a thick, strong, salty sauce, with green vegetables.  Occasionally includes additional vegetables such as carrot.  Some restaurants will lay the dish out in a quaint flower pattern.
Naan
(Moslem Bread)
新疆大饼 馕
xin jiang da bing
nang

Yes
If you miss bread, as I sure did, just find a moslem restaurant.  A great many of these will have 'Xinjiang' (the name of China's westernmost province) in the name.  The phrase I have heard used is 'xinjiang da bing' (Xinjiang big bread/biscuit), however you can say naan instead (the name for bread in the Turkic languages of Central Asia).
Oyster Mushrooms
蚝油双菇
hao you shuang gu
No
Various mushrooms stir fried with oyster sauce.  Not particularly common.
Porridges (Congees)

zhou
Some
Chinese
Pinyin
Description
红豆粥
hong dou zhou
Red bean porridge (sweet).
大米粥
da mi zhou
White rice porridge (sometimes sweet).
黑米粥
hei mi zhou
Black rice porridge with jujubes (sweet).
八宝粥
ba bao zhou
Eight ingredient porridge (sweet).
小米粥
xiao mi zhou
Millet congee.
玉米粥
yu mi zhou
Corn / maize porridge.
绿豆粥
lv dou zhou
Green bean porridge (sometimes sweet).
Shredded Kelp
凉拌海带丝
liang ban hai dai si
Yes
Just what it sounds like - kelp.  Reportedly good with vinegar.
Sour Spicy Cabbage
酸辣白菜
suan la bai cai
Yes
Cabbage dish made from chilli, salt, garlic and cabbage, sometimes with  pepper added.
Soya milk
豆浆
dou jiang
Yes
Soy milk, often found boiling at breakfast time.  Plain, sweet or salty versions are available.  Usually if you have a bowl of this at breakfast, you can also eat various munchies alongside.
Chinese
Pinyin
Description
油条
you tiao
Deep fried doughstick. Long, munchy things hard to handle with chopsticks. These soften up once you give them a good bathing in soy milk. (Pictured left)

Stir-fried Cabbage
炒白菜
chao bai cai
Yes
Stir fried cabbage, usually with a little bit of chilli and salt.  See also Sour Spicy Cabbage.
Tiger Salad
老虎菜
lao hu cai
Yes
There are two main variants of this.  North-eastern (dong bei) and North-western (xi bei).  Both dishes are essentially a mix of onion and chilli strips tossed with vinegar and usually coriander.  The xi bei variant, which I prefer, also includes tomato.  Goes great with breads.
Tofu Brains


豆腐脑
dou fu nao
Yes
Great breakfast-time soup dish made from tofu, woodear musrooms, coriander and chilli.
Warning: Watch out for dried shrimps - some places will sprinkle them on top.
Yoghurt

酸奶
suan nai
No
In many places you can buy yoghurt in glass bottles with tinfoil or paper lids from street vendors. These are most active in the morning.  Also, in other areas you can often buy yoghurt in larger food stores or convenience stores.

Fruits and Nuts

Common and recognisable fruits include pineapples, mangoes and bananas (especially in the southwest, where they are grown, or in the east, where they are shipped from the Philippines), watermelons (grown in the west and north of the country) and apples (for which Shandong province is famous).

A host of extra, unrecognisable fruits are also available in to the melon category, and in tropical climes to the south.

Prices for fresh fruits and vegetables are very low - though rising - and you can still find numerous small fruit and vegetable markets in even the largest cities.

Nuts such as peanuts (hua sheng), cashews (yao guo) and pistachios (kai xin guo) are also readily available. They come fresh in the market, salted, packaged, fried or even coated.

Western Food

Although most 'western' food in China is of terrible quality with an inversely proportional price tag, there are some gems available.

Firstly, many cities in China now have cheap French breadsticks available through Walmart or Carrefour supermarkets.

More expensive imported goods such as cheese and wine are also available.

Pizza is usually a safe option for non-vegans intending to eat 'western' anywhere in China - it's hard to do badly, but do be careful of the toppings since Chinese have a strange fondness for corn on pizza!

Vegetarian food on Chinese buses / trains / planes

Flower design.

The sleeper trains across China are very convenient but do not provide vegetarian fare. Although there is a dining cart which, as a side dish, usually will have something edible, don't bet on it.

You would be best to bring your own fruit, biscuits or vegetarian instant noodles to have on the train. (Hot water is available in large thermoses and is constantly refilled by attendants.)

You can hop off the trains during longer stops and acquire various vegetarian munchies such as peanuts, packaged and spiced preserved tofu (but be careful! some flavoured tofu packs contain meat flavouring!), biscuits, etc.

The same munchies can be procured for long bus journeys.

All Chinese airlines now provide vegetarian meals if you book them in advance.

Vegetarian Restaurants

Chinese fan in peacock design.

Here are some vegetarian restaurants throughout China. If you know of any more, please let me know!

Beijing / 北京市

Baihe - Lily Vegetarian

Haidan District (100 meters south of Xinjian Gongmen, Summer Palace)
+86 10 64052081

Baihe Vegetarian / 百合素食香草园店

Caoyuan Hutong No. Jia 23, Bei Xiaojie, Dongzhimen Nei, Dongcheng District (map)
东城区北小街草园胡同23号
+86 10 64052082

Bodhi-Sake / 菩提缘素食斋

10-16 Heiyao Changjie, Xuanwu District (map)
宣武区黑窑厂街10号
+86 10 63542889

Elaine's

Luo Ma Hu, Shunyi
+86 10 80485088

Lotus in Moonlight

Shanghai

Chong Zheng Natural Vegetarian

450 Nanjing Road East 8th Floor
+86 21 63612059

Chunfeng Songyue Lou

Chenghuang Temple, 23 Bailin Road
+86 21 63553630

Contact

Vegetarian China